Uk News The fall of Missguided and rise of eBay shows Gen Z is falling out of love with fast fashion United Kingdom news
PremierLeague-News.Com - Second-hand clothing has already displaced one billion new clothing sales as young people grow increasingly concerned about the environmental and ethical impact of what they wear
PremierLeague-News.Com - Breaking Sport Transfer News ! On 30 May, a pink, polyester era for fast fashion retailer Missguided came to an end as the company called in administrators after it emerged its suppliers were owed millions of pounds. The brand was snapped up by Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group for £20m, a steal given a 50 per cent stake was worth £53m just last year. More than 80 employees were let go immediately via an “emotionless automated message”, a far cry from the supportive, feminist, all-in-this-together work culture the company tried to paint in its 2020 Channel 4 documentary, Inside Missguided. “Me and 229 badass bitches work our arses off 24/7”, the narrator declared. But apparently that wasn’t enough to save the company.The news comes in the midst of what appears to be a sea change in attitudes towards fast fashion, illustrated most notably by Love Island bringing eBay on board as its fashion sponsor for this year’s series. Missguided was the show’s first integrated fashion sponsor in 2018, stepping up product placement to new levels with a constant stream of new clothes for contestants to wear on screen. It was subsequently replaced by I Saw It First but it set the tone both for overconsumption as light entertainment and the Islander-to-fast-fashion-influencer pipeline. This year’s Islanders, however, are wearing pre-loved items chosen from a shared wardrobe.Missguided boss Nitin Passi (Photo: Morgan Lieberman/Getty)The move is a reflection of new research which revealed 20 per cent of Brits buy more second-hand items than two years ago, and that 18-34 year olds have the highest average percentage of second-hand clothes in their wardrobes, at 22 per cent.With the second-hand market set to grow 127 per cent by 2026, it could be argued that Missguided’s downfall is simply part of a wider consumer wake-up call. The fact that Topshop went into administration in 2020 and H&M is set to close 240 stores corroborates this concept. “As the cost of living continues to increase, and consumers are becoming more aware of the environmental impact of their shopping habits, we are beginning to see a slow but steady decline in fast fashion,” says Andrea Knowles, a personal finance expert from Vouchers.co.uk. “The shortening lifespan of trends is also creating a sense of fashion fatigue amongst consumers, particularly those in younger generations.” ‘Missguided’s fall isn’t the end of fast fashion'(Photo: Luciano Cardinale) Layton Ryan-Parson 19, Tower Hamlets, London Like a lot of consumers, I do think about the ethics of cheap clothing but I’m also motivated by affordability. Inspired by TikTok videos, as cringeworthy as it sounds, I attempted to thrift but had no success. I think it takes a certain eagle eye, which I don’t have, and so I’ve gone back to buying new. The fall of Missguided isn’t the end of fast fashion – people buy from Boohoo or Shein because the offers are too good to reject. The pandemic has made 60 per cent of Gen Z shoppers, those born from the late 90s onwards, more conscious about the fashion they buy, and many are even using buy-now-pay-later schemes to invest in higher quality pieces. On top of that, secondhand has displaced the sale of nearly one billion new clothing purchases. So, it’s inarguable that change is afoot. But at the same time, other fast fashion players are flourishing.Boohoo is expected to announce profits of £125m, due a 14 per cent increase in sales. Zara owner Inditex has seen sales jump by 36 per cent, Primark’s sales rose by 59 per cent, and despite the store closures, H&M’s profits rose 85 per cent in 2021. And of course, the stratospheric rise of the Chinese online retailer Shein, which blows its rivals out of the water in terms of levels of production, cannot be overlooked as the company was valued at $100bn (£82bn) in April.Environmental pollution from textile industry in Dhaka, Bangladesh, where many fast fashion garments are made (Photo: Andrew Aitchison/In pictures/Getty)“There is a growing number of consumers who are choosing to shop more consciously, staying away from cheap throwaway fashion,” says Lemon Fuller, founder and CEO of slow fashion underwear brand Lemonade Dolls. “[But] a significant percentage of people will always search for the biggest bargain they can find, whatever the consequences for the environment and people involved. This is where Shein will come out on top.”As fast fashion gets ever-faster, only those who can compete will win out, and Missguided had been struggling for years. The brand, helmed by Nitin Passi as chief executive (but actually owned by his father), painted a picture of success with Passi’s £300k Lamborghini, trips to Vegas, and £1,000 giveaways. Brianna Mills 24, London Although I have tried them in the past, I don’t shop at Shein, Boohoo or Missguided. Once the clothes arrive they are usually a disappointment, and it’s no surprise, since they’re really cheap. Platforms such as Depop, eBay and Vinted are commendable for encouraging people to sell their unwanted clothes and giving them a longer lifespan, instead of throwing them away. As a fashion designer (vernicia.co.uk, https://www.instagram.com/verniciaofficial), sustainability in the industry is very important to me and when I buy clothes from other brands, I am conscious of their values and the process that went into making the garment. I also think it’s it’s important to invest in staple wardrobe pieces that will last for years.
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. It also had serious reputational work to do at the same time after an undercover investigation alleged a Missguided supplier in Leicester was paying factory workers just £3.25 an hour.At the time Missguided said it took the allegations “very seriously” and promised to investigate. It insisted that it demands “the highest standards of safety, working conditions and pay from all of our suppliers and subcontractors.”Just as Topshop couldn’t seem to work out what its audience, or its offering, was in the years before it collapsed, Missguided similarly couldn’t quite find its place. It promised to operate ethically and do better after the factory scandal, signing up to the Ethical Trade Initiative, but sold £1 bikinis. It painted itself as an empowering paradise for girl bosses, but had a 40 per cent gender pay gap. It was a product of the e-com boom, but it opened physical stores. More from LifestyleHow I Manage my Childcare: 'The £1.9k a month for my twins' nursery is every penny I earn'21 June, 2022Why Heathrow flights are being cancelled today after Terminal 2 luggage delays20 June, 2022Asking prices hit fifth record this year but there are signs pace of growth is slowing20 June, 2022Aesthetically (and ethically), it’s almost impossible to separate Missguided from its major rival Boohoo, but for all its many, many faults Boohoo is a well-oiled, efficient machine which knows its customer back to front, while Missguided flip-flopped from one big idea to the next. The constant missteps may also explain why although Missguided was the Love Island sponsor, a deal with Boohoo was always the goal for influencers-in-waiting.Given its history of faux-feminism, questions about the treatment of workers by some of its subcontractors, and prices so low they were an insult to people and the planet, the fall of Missguided could be seen as a cause for celebration. But Missguided leaves in its wake numerous unpaid suppliers and garment workers.
(Photo: Luciano Cardinale) Kia-Elise Green 19, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire I used most of my first wage packet on a Pretty Little Thing order full of clothes that I no longer own. I’m aware of the fast fashion industry but as a 16-year-old earning only a few hundred pounds a month, the toss-up between shopping sustainably and getting 10 crop tops for £50 ended selfishly. I’d love to say that four years later my wardrobe is full of recycled items but it isn’t. My generation is well aware of the huge environmental burdens we face in the future, but with the ethical option usually more expensive and a cost-of-living crisis affecting us all, it’s just so easy to click on a Missguided or Shein advert. I do this more than I’d like to admit. But I will say that second-hand shopping is starting to replace my older habits thanks to Depop and eBay. Buying pre-loved saves money and I’ve found clothes that I would never have tried before.
“The money is very important for my workers, they have families they have to look after. They are very hard working people,” one China-based supplier from whom Missguided is withholding £800,000 told i. Workers in Pakistan report they have been left to starve having not received salaries for more than four months, while one supplier in Leicester said he had to send over 90 workers home as he couldn’t pay them.Podcaster and campaigner Venetia La Manna and Mayisha Begum of Oh So Ethical teamed up with Labour Behind The Label to arrange protests in London (outside the offices of Missguided’s co-owner and administrators) and Manchester (outside the brand’s HQ). “We found the way the brand completely cut contact with [garment makers], ignored their calls and emails and refused to pay them for work they had already completed absolutely abhorrent,” says La Manna, adding that they felt extremely privileged to be joined by garment makers and suppliers who travelled from Leicester to join the protests.“Missguided and their investors are putting the lives of their garment makers in real danger. One garment maker that I met on Friday told me that he hadn’t been able to sleep for weeks because he’s so worried about not being able to pay his rent. Many of them have children who they can’t afford to feed. It’s utterly inhumane,” she continues. So far, the protesters have received no response from the brand so digital action, including a petition, will continue.In a shifting culture, Missguided could no longer hold out against entrenched mismanagement, but this moment should also serve as a warning to others.“As countries move to clean up what has notoriously been a dirty industry, statistics show that more than 50 per cent of consumers of various age groups want the fashion industry to become more sustainable, with young Gen Z’s driving the change, as 90 per cent of them are making sustainability a part of their daily lives,” says Whitney Cathcart, co-founder and chief strategy officer at 3DLOOK.The consumer focus on making better choices means fast fashion brands are now competing against themselves as Zara, Pretty Little Thing, ASOS, and Boohoo are among the most resold fashion brands on platforms like eBay and Depop. As such, they need to offer something more than just rock-bottom prices. Shein has just announced a $50m fund to manage textile waste, and even Boohoo has a sustainability hub. Of course, such measures don’t do much to actually offset their environmental and human impact, but the brands are savvy enough to at least make it look as if they care.Missguided’s collapse lays bare the high cost of fast fashion to people and planet. And while, yes, change is in the air, it’s not quite the revolution many would hope for. Rather it shows that – for the time being at least – the brands who will survive are the ones who can combine shrewd business and lightning-fast production with a convincing mirage of responsibility.
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